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You could still use ReShade for games.
I will definitely try ReShade for games and madVR for movies.
And Vincent, while it’s a good advice I don’t have that AOC monitor and I’m happy I didn’t get one.
I attached some fresh HCFR measurements from mine. (Acer XV240YP – 24″ WLED IPS – Not wide gamut)
Just check the difference between before greyscale calibration and after. I didn’t bother measuring the stock settings, it all had a very blueish green tint in the “best” setting and I managed to get a better greyscale by eye even before getting the i1 Display Pro.I’m just keeping it without in-display adjustments for now since everything seems pretty linear that way even if some things are oversaturated.
I’d rather have linear hues than lower dE and the hues floating around all over the place.Anyway, bottom line: I’m happy with how the display looks and that’s what matters!
I came from a TN panel before this so it looks pretty darn good to me.Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.@ U2
Calibration + Starcraft = corrected Grey scale/Luminance/Whitepoint ONLY (taken care of by the GPU table)
Calibration + XYZ profile + Starcraft = same ^^ , Starcraft does not support XYZ
Calibration + XYZ profile + Photoshop (color aware applications) = Full Gamut Correction
Calibration + XYZ profile + Madvr (video playback renderer) = Grey/Lume/Whitepoint ONLY (Taken care of by the GPU)
Calibration + 3DLUT + Madvr = Full Gamut Correction
In most cases, you probably don’t want to use the SRGB modes on any device that has them, because unless this is a professional device, the internal table / color handling is garbage, resulting in a large reduction in saturation/ contrast ratio.
For most consumer devices, you want to use the largest native gamut mode to ensure the highest contrast ratio. Visually contrast is the most impactful difference post calibration.
Corrected Greyscale is enough for games/internet/movies
You can Go for the 3DLut if you want perfect Rec709 through MPCHC+ Madvr, however, chances are you’re not going to like the reduced saturation by clamping the device to 709 edges. So using the Saturation or Preserve saturation rendering intent may be better looking overall.
@ U2
Thanks for your reply! By now I’ve already managed to understand all of this through lots of experimentation.
Still got some more experimentation to do since even in a 100% dark room the backlight of my display eats the near black details up to about 2.2 gamma.
During the day it’s tough to see near black details with 2.2. But indeed sRGB seems to wash out the saturation a bit too much at least in near black details.On the other hand I have no problems with the slightly reduced saturation with a 3DLut in madVR. I’m used to watching movies on an LCD TV that is much closer to reference. My favorite preset so far is Rec709 with 2.2 relative gamma and 100% black output offset. I haven’t figured out the difference between relative and absolute gamma though but since relative is the default setting I’m going with it. Maybe reducing the black output offset a little might get me a better daytime setting for 2.2?
I’m also wondering if there is some way to use madVR as the renderer in WMP. Found an old reddit thread where someone claimed to be using it with WMP. I have old speakers that makes everything sound fantastic and just right with the built in SRS WOW / TruBass plugin in WMP and as far as I know there is no equivalent for MPC-HC. (It’s tough to change the way you hear things after like 15-20 years.) Though there’s no question about which player is the superior, MPC-HC with madVR works great on the image quality side of things.
By the way, I forgot to mention that even in a 100% dark room, at 2.4 gamma the near black details are completely eaten by the backlight. I’m gonna try with black output offset at 90-95 or so and see if I can get a good setting. Or I’ll stick to 2.2. But I think I might need maybe 95% in a dark room for 2.2 too because of the backlight.
For IPS panels, the only way to really pull out more black detail is to DROP the backlight below 100nits. So you’re sacrificing the peak highlights for peak black.
In a pitch black room ~50nits peak white is still usable and doesn’t look at all compressed. You want to make sure you’re adjusting the hardware backlight not using the software clamps.
For IPS panels, the only way to really pull out more black detail is to DROP the backlight below 100nits
The contrast ratio will be about the same so you’re still loosing the lowest blacks at g2.4. It’s a limitation of IPS tech.
For IPS panels, the only way to really pull out more black detail is to DROP the backlight below 100nits
The contrast ratio will be about the same so you’re still loosing the lowest blacks at g2.4. It’s a limitation of IPS tech.
I’m only making the recommendation for pitch black. You don’t need 100nits for that environment, you might as well extract just a bit more shadow.
I’m only making the recommendation for pitch black. You don’t need 100nits for that environment, you might as well extract just a bit more shadow.
Don’t worry, I’m not a fan of extreme brightness. 🙂
My gaming setting has the backlight set to 7 which gives me a peak luminance of ~92 cd/m2. (I think nits are the same, right?)
My work/web/movie setting has the backlight at 0 and I get ~66 cd/m2. Black level at this setting is 0.080 cd/m2.
These are what I’m comfy with. (Funny detail: The display came with a standard backlight setting of 50! I never measured it but if 7 steps increases the luminance by 26 cd/m2 then 50 should be about 185 cd/m2, enough to burn your eyes out if you ask me.)
