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Yes, gamma is lower than your target but is pretty neutral and without uncalibrated color issues like other AHVA gaming monitors (hence my suspicion related to low light uncalibrated behavior / calibration curves).
So in your situation is just contrast.
Is it possible to “bend” just a little more that low end “elbow” so you retain 2.2 just a little further before going to 1.9 ?… IDNK, ask Florian.
Yes, I think that’s what I meant – that the curve will be a little more deep in the low end, so it meets the 2.2 gamma at 10% and 25% and the blacks are blacker.
Don’t use lagom as a benchmark for color management, it’s not made for that (see the FAQ in this forum). You’ll misinterpret the results.
OK, I’ve read it.
It seems that the profile is indeed correct and I’m just having a problem getting used to lack of dynamic contrast (which makes shadows look darker) / the awful matte antiglare coating of my display or that 900:1 is not enough contrast for me.
Thanks for the help.I’ve owned Spyder 5, Colormunki display and i1 display pro colorimeters. I found the Spyder 5 always reported a much lower contrast ratio than the other colorimeters.
You mentioned your contrast ratio not being enough at 900:1.. My xb271hu and your monitor both use the same panel so should calibrate very similary. After calibration, in DisplayCal, my xb271hu reports a contrast ratio of around 1200:1 (as long as contrast is set to factory default and white balance rgb values haven’t been lowered too much in the OSD). If I lower Contrast in the OSD or lower White balance RGB too much then the contrast ratio is reduced accordingly. I’m not sure why Spyders and Colormunki’s vary so much in how they report the contrast ratio number, as these results are often mentioned in reviews online – one reviewer may state the contrast ratio is 800:1, and another may state 1000:1 for the exact same screen, just because one used a Spyder and the other used a Colormunki.
I get your frustration about gamma looking washed out on the pg279q, expecially when calibrated to 2.2, as I see the same issue with my screen. My xb271hu has a native gamma of 2.04 – which is not ideal for dim room lighting and even after calibrating to 2.2, under dim lighting, shadows can look a little washed out. I sit in a room with dim lighting, so when I load a game up and shadows don’t look at dark as I would like, even with a 2.2 calibration applied, I just lower the brightness/gamma slider in game to taste. As its just a video game, accuracy isn’t that important to me.
I use reshade in pc games where possible and a 3dlut for watching movies in Jriver Media Centre as I can test different curves out, I made 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4 to reflect room lighting.
Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.I’ve owned Spyder 5, Colormunki display and i1 display pro colorimeters. I found the Spyder 5 always reported a much lower contrast ratio than the other colorimeters.
You mentioned your contrast ratio not being enough at 900:1.. My xb271hu and your monitor both use the same panel so should calibrate very similary. After calibration, in DisplayCal, my xb271hu reports a contrast ratio of around 1200:1 (as long as contrast is set to factory default and white balance rgb values haven’t been lowered too much in the OSD). If I lower Contrast in the OSD or lower White balance RGB too much then the contrast ratio is reduced accordingly. I’m not sure why Spyders and Colormunki’s vary so much in how they report the contrast ratio number, as these results are often mentioned in reviews online – one reviewer may state the contrast ratio is 800:1, and another may state 1000:1 for the exact same screen, just because one used a Spyder and the other used a Colormunki.
I get your frustration about gamma looking washed out on the pg279q, expecially when calibrated to 2.2, as I see the same issue with my screen. My xb271hu has a native gamma of 2.04 – which is not ideal for dim room lighting and even after calibrating to 2.2, under dim lighting, shadows can look a little washed out. I sit in a room with dim lighting, so when I load a game up and shadows don’t look at dark as I would like, even with a 2.2 calibration applied, I just lower the brightness/gamma slider in game to taste. As its just a video game, accuracy isn’t that important to me.
I use reshade in pc games where possible and a 3dlut for watching movies in Jriver Media Centre as I can test different curves out, I made 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4 to reflect room lighting.
It looks like we’re exactly in the same boat. The panel is the same panel in Asus PG279q and Acer xb271hu and we both have a low 2.05 default native gamma.
I’ve tried using the in game slider in few games, but something else looks off to me when I do this. something just doesn’t look “homogenous” when I do this, like there is an unnatural too big gap between shadows and highlights. maybe it’s banding.
I think I should just live with it as it is and avoid watching gameplay movies on my phone, as they will always look a lot better there..I’m not sure why Spyders and Colormunki’s vary so much in how they report the contrast ratio number
That’s not variance – you can trust the contrast readings of the i1D3 family of colorimeters, because they can read quite low (down to 0.003 cd/m2 which is enough for almost all computer displays except OLED). The Spyders on the other hand are inherently limited when it comes to reading low light levels due to their hardware design – they lack the light gathering lens of the i1D3 and cannot be used for accurate contrast measurements in many cases.
I sit in a room with dim lighting, so when I load a game up and shadows don’t look at dark as I would like, even with a 2.2 calibration applied, I just lower the brightness/gamma slider in game to taste.
You could do that, or calibrate to a higher gamma / increase black output offset.
I’m not sure why Spyders and Colormunki’s vary so much in how they report the contrast ratio number
That’s not variance – you can trust the contrast readings of the i1D3 family of colorimeters, because they can read quite low (down to 0.003 cd/m2 which is enough for almost all computer displays except OLED). The Spyders on the other hand are inherently limited when it comes to reading low light levels due to their hardware design – they lack the light gathering lens of the i1D3 and cannot be used for accurate contrast measurements in many cases.
I sit in a room with dim lighting, so when I load a game up and shadows don’t look at dark as I would like, even with a 2.2 calibration applied, I just lower the brightness/gamma slider in game to taste.
You could do that, or calibrate to a higher gamma / increase black output offset.
That makes much more sense now, thanks Florian 🙂
