- This topic has 2 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hi!
I know the Spyder 3 is ancient and really, really bad, so I’m curious whether it’s even worth it to try and calibrate this screen. My initial attempts have resulted in pretty hideous colors and everything generally being too reddish.
Are there any correction profiles I should try or is it just not worth it using the Spyder 3 to calibrate screens nowadays? I’m too broke for something like a used Colormunki or i1Display 🙁
You may try visual white point editor, so it does not change white. Then limit calibration speed (=number of grey calibration patches) so its innacurate readings won’t mess too much. Then blindly trust that R,G,B 255 primary colors reading won’t be too much innacurate so color managed apps won’t go crazy. Also any kind of madVR LUT3D should be made relative colorimetric, not absolute (because you do not trust measured white, that’s why you use “visual” whitepoint, you choose a right whitepoint bye eye appraisal)
The odds are not very good but may try.If even with all these “simplifications” (so spyder mess the less possible) resulting calibration & profile do not work visually… you’ll need better measuring HW.
If even with all these “simplifications” (so spyder mess the less possible) resulting calibration & profile do not work visually… you’ll need better measuring HW.
Maybe it’ll still be mediocre, but your tips are definitely a good starting point! Didn’t think of choosing a manual whitepoint, never considered doing that or why it would be beneficial. I’ll try later!
Let me know if you have any other suggestions! I might just leave the display default besides making whites look actually white-ish based on my eyes 🙁
