- This topic has 16 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 11 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
The bars in interactive adjustment look the same all the time. I tried all corrections, suitable and wrong ones, for the xrite and all modes for spyder. I used the bundled “lcd white led” for lg (my monitor uses a lg panel). i used also the specific ccmx . It looks ALL THE TIME the same.
If i set “whitepoint” to 6500k, i have to push the green in the monitor extremly to balance it, if i set it to “as measured”, blue and green is much too low.
It looks the same with all obervers. i checked all settings in windows.
It doesn’t make sense to me that there are a few colorimeter to buy, but they are absolutly useless, cause they don’t know what is grey… I need a calibration tool for a calibration tool?! How can they offer own software if i need a correction file or a special calibration tool for the calibration tool…
I want that a grey is real grey and not a green or blue. I didn’t expect this is so hard to do.If it is only a little bit green or blue, i would say i am used to the look and need some time to adjust my eyes… but it looks that horrible that it cannot be right.
When i set the whitepoint mode to 6500k, the interactive adjustment shows me:
target: x0.3128 y 0.3292 0.0 Delta E
Current: x0.3113 y 0.305 15.5 Delta E.
I think this delta e cannot be correct if i set the monitor to the best mode.If i change monitor settings from “office” with native colors to sRGB, it is 17.7….
Is a calibration useful if i set monitor adjustment to a grey color that looks grey to me, and ignore the adjustment? I don’t think so…
I used the bundled “lcd white led” for lg (my monitor uses a lg panel).
That means nothing. Backlight and panel are separate things. Panel is just sort of “window blinds”. Colorspace is granted by backlight type… that is what you should be searching as I suggested before.
It looks the same with all obervers. i checked all settings in windows.
That has nothing to to with the suggested causes of your whitepoint issues
It doesn’t make sense to me that there are a few colorimeter to buy, but they are absolutly useless, cause they don’t know what is grey… I need a calibration tool for a calibration tool?! How can they offer own software if i need a correction file or a special calibration tool for the calibration tool…
I want that a grey is real grey and not a green or blue. I didn’t expect this is so hard to do.That is a false statement. For example you buy some of the common/cheap IPS U-line in Dell, feed WLED (sRGB) or WLED PFS (P3) correction to colorimeter … and just works. Their backlight is well known.
If you try to measure some unknown/ ancient/abandoned backlight technology and want to use an i1d3 colorimeter… you’ll have to provide its spectral power distribution (CCSS) to correct device. And that could be shared for other owners of that display.
Also for all colorimeters (including your defective spyder4) you can correct IT (and just that one) with a reference device (CCMX matrix, not portable)
If you want a colorimeter that matches exactly CIE 1931 2 degre to lab accuracy out of the box with what ever spectral power distribution … you’ll need a few thousand bucks.Before writing those false claims you’ll need to learn how CIE XYZ coordinates are computed. English wikipedia is a good start: it has integrals and you can figure out pretty quickly wnat happens when an stable but not perfect device (2XX bucks) like an i1d3 does not match “-bar” functions. Colorimeter corrections enter here.
If it is only a little bit green or blue, i would say i am used to the look and need some time to adjust my eyes… but it looks that horrible that it cannot be right.
I wrote above 3 main possible causes
Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
