- This topic has 3 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 3 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hello,
I recently bought a Spyder 5 Express colorimeter with the hope of calibrating my monitors to look as close as possible to each other.
I know that they are TN panels, which do not have a good color quality, but I hoped that the calibration would still end up in a more pleasing result that their factory settings, but it doesn’t seem like that.
I should add that my target calibration is mainly “normal” use (watching videos, reading text, programming and rarely photography at hobbyist level). I don’t have a fixed ambient light temperature/intensity (light from the windows during the day, a 2700k light at night).I’ve already done several tests (for a day and a half) for both monitors and I’ve got some decent results for the Samsung, using a colorimeter correction I’ve found on your online database, but mainly using the whitepoint setting “as measured”, with the Samsung settings at their defaults.
The result though have a slight pink tint on the lighter colors.. and skin looks too reddish.What I don’t get about the whole calibration process in general and about the previous results I had with the Samsung is that I instead tell DisplayCAL to target for a white point of 6500K, then in the interactive display adjustment, which shows the red, green, blue channels, I would have to increase through the monitor controls my green a lot, and reduce blue and red, with the result that I would everything with a green tint.
After calibration the green tint would reduce, but it would be still quite visible on the darker colors (and I’ve tried also the low calibration speed, but it seemed it didn’t do much).
I don’t have here the verification reports, I’ll redo the calibration from Windows (was on Linux previously) and post here the results.What’s more puzzling is the other monitor. By default it has a green/yellowish tint, either selecting the User Preset with RGB at 100% or the 6500K preset.
I’ve calibrated it again with whitepoint at 6500k, no correction (because I can’t find any), the mode is White LED.
At the Interactive Adjustment step it seems more spot on than the Samsung, I just have to reduce the blue channel a bit, even if then it has an even more pronounced yellow/green tint.
After the calibration is finished the green tint disappears but a yellow tint is still there and quite visible on the white.
In the attachment I’ve put a before and after verification report.Now to be honest I’m a bit confused, I don’t get how the colorimeter thinks that the white is ok, unless obviously I don’t know how white at 6500k is supposed to look.
As you can understand I’m definitely not a color expert, but when I was calibrating the monitors by hand I would obtain a result that was more pleasing than what the colorimeter gives me.
Also, again on the white, I would expect it to look like a white paper sheet, unless that color actually has some blue added to make it cooler and less yellowish (as with some clothes).Sorry for the long post, but any idea of which settings could give me the best results?
Or I’m doomed because by TN panels are bad?Hello,
I recently bought a Spyder 5 Express colorimeter with the hope of calibrating my monitors to look as close as possible to each other.
Bad choice. Cheapest instrument with high chances to get accurate readings with bundled or user/community spectral corrections is Colormunki Display/i1DisplayPro
As you can understand I’m definitely not a color expert, but when I was calibrating the monitors by hand I would obtain a result that was more pleasing than what the colorimeter gives me.
Also, again on the white, I would expect it to look like a white paper sheet, unless that color actually has some blue added to make it cooler and less yellowish (as with some clothes).Related to what I wrote previously + non suitable “generic correction” for that display and measurement device + a bit of your own visual system differences with CIE 1931 2º observer.
IMHO decreasing weight as you go from left to right in this summation.Sorry for the long post, but any idea of which settings could give me the best results?
Or I’m doomed because by TN panels are bad?Set white “by eye” until you get what you think “it’s white”.
Then set calibration target for white “as measured”.
Colorimeter should measure corrected grey tones with the same color coordinate as white. When you verify, do not focus on “Measured vs. assumed target whitepoint ΔE*00” since you are setting white “by eye”.Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.Thanks, I’ll try that (which is basically what I’ve done for the Samsung, even if in that case I’ve left the settings to its native whitepoint)
Though the real question is, given that the DisplayCAL database doesn’t seems to have the one for my Iiyama monitor, would it be still worth to return the Spyder and buy for instance, the i1Display Pro?
Or just return the Spyder.. and accept the way it is?I mean I see that the i1 Display Pro should be much faster than the Spyder 5, so that would help with the initial calibration tests, to find the correct settings, because the Spyder takes 1 hour for the High calibration speed and almost 5 hours with Low calibration speed..
Also I understand that having two different TN panels might not simplify this.. so I’m wondering if it’s even worth the hassle.. and if it would not be better to just use a simple software calibration (as I’ve always had), because funnily the hardware calibration seems to accentuate the issues.
Edit: I’m trying the calibration with my MacBook Pro 13″ 2018.. lets see how it goes, as a comparison..
So well, I’ve tried to do it “by eye” but the issue is that a certain change in one channel (RGB) of a monitor isn’t the same as the other.
At a certain point I’ve ended up having a “reddish” whitepoint on both, but the shade of red was different.
Also did a test, by putting the G and B channel to 0; on one monitor what should’ve been white was a light salmon color, the other was a bright red with some orange.. so well..I’ve also tried again to calibrate the Samsung monitor, using a fixed whitepoint of 6500k (and the correction done by a spectrometer downloaded from the database), but again it forces me to give everything a green tint.. also to the white.. and the colorimeter seems to not detect that (given that I’ve put those colors in the Interactive Adjustment phase).
So at this point I really think I’ll return the colorimeter.. I’m not even sure I’ll take the new one.. too many variables, the spectrometer correction doesn’t seems to solve much (unless I can be sure that with the Display Pro at least the detected white will be correct) and the second monitor doesn’t even have one.
