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Hi
I have a new lg 29wk600 on windows 10. Calibrating with a Spyder 3.
I only get 67% srgb but the monitor is meant to be 99%?
Anyone any ideas on why I’m not getting even close?
I’m just using the default settings.
Thanks!
Hi,
the Spyder3, being a quite old instrument from the days when LCDs were still CCFL backlit and not white LED as nowadays, may not be able to correctly deal with your new display without suitable correction. Try using the correction “Spyder 3 for Apple Cinema Display (white LED)” that can be imported from iColor Display (menu “Tools” -> “Correction” -> “Import colorimeter corrections from other software…”).
Many thanks for your reply. As you suggested I tried the Matrix: Spyder 3 for Apple Cinema Display (white LED). Unfortunately I got 57% RGB this time :(.
Do you have any other ideas or is the Spyder 3 ready for the bin? What should I replace it with on a budget that plays nicely with displaycal?
Thanks .
Are you limiting the brightness via the calibration and not via the backlight by any chance? Otherwise, the ColorMunki Display or i1 Display Pro are the best choices for an upgrade.
Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.I’m reducing the brightness using the monitor controls so that the two arrows line up at the start. Is that what you mean?
I’ve ordered the Spyder5Express – was that a bad move?! Is it going to give me the same results?
I’m wondering if the default monitor profile is better than I’m going to profile now?
Thanks very much for your help.
Also found an old gretagmacbeth i1 display – would that be a better bet than the spyder 3?
It seems to measure my brightness really low (like 60) – and wants me to pull red and blue all the way down to get close to target?
Again all defaults set – did try i1 display and whitepoint and didn’t make any difference.
Thanks!
I’m reducing the brightness using the monitor controls so that the two arrows line up at the start. Is that what you mean?
The luminance target during interactive adjustment is the initial luminance when starting the measurements (usually luminance decreases when adjusting RGB gains, and the assumption is you want to keep the original luminance). You can however calibrate to any luminance you’d like (it should roughly match your ambient luminance for reduced eye strain).
I’ve ordered the Spyder5Express
That’s still a step up from the Spyder3, but the aforementioned ones are better instruments.
I’m wondering if the default monitor profile is better than I’m going to profile now?
Unlikely. The canned profiles (if the manufacturer even offers one) are often generic.
Also found an old gretagmacbeth i1 display – would that be a better bet than the spyder 3?
Probably not. It’s from the same era.
Very helpful reply thanks.
The new Spyder works brilliantly with Displaycal! I get 99.1% RGB . (Rated as 99% typ).
So are the old devices broken – I was planning to sell! But not sure if broken – or just not able to calibrate this fairly entry level £250 monitor.
Even setting the RGB seems off compared to using the new Spyder 5 – but would be strange for them both to be broken?
With the new Spyder – I know you say it’s not as good – but it’s £100 cheaper in the UK. Would I really notice any difference calibrating with both? Is there a way I can see how good the calibration is?
And finally, should I choose any correction with the new spyder 5, and should I leave mode as LCD generic for this display?
Thank you!
So are the old devices broken
Not necessarily broken, just not designed for modern display types which makes them less useful if no correction is at hand.
With the new Spyder – I know you say it’s not as good – but it’s £100 cheaper in the UK. Would I really notice any difference calibrating with both?
Now that you have already bought it, I wouldn’t break my head over differences. That said, my main criticism of the Spyders is that they are painfully slow and not as accurate especially near black. Without a direct comparison, I doubt this will translate into visible differences though.
And finally, should I choose any correction with the new spyder 5, and should I leave mode as LCD generic for this display?
The Spyder5 offers several vendor-supplied modes (after importing them via Tools -> Import colorimeter corrections from other software). In your case, “White LED” should be the one to use.
Ok thanks, reassuring.
To clarify there are two places – where do I select white LED:
Under correction:
https://goo.gl/uiVfboand under mode:
https://goo.gl/tCVWxxI’ve highlighted the options – do I need to select both. I left LCD generic and correction: none so far. What difference does it make?
My second occasional monitor is an old Viewsonic VX2260WM – what would I choose for that do you know? I can’t get it any brighter than 120 but still ok.
Thank you for all your help.
For the Spyder4/5, make the selection under “Mode”, which will automatically set correction to “None” (mode and correction are mutually exclusive, so it won’t let you select both).
My second occasional monitor is an old Viewsonic VX2260WM – what would I choose for that do you know?
If it’s an old LCD, probably CCFL.
I keep reading about delta E – how do I measure this? How do I measure how accurate my monitor is? I know it’s 99.2% RGB which is withing spec.
Is it the verification – if so do I choose sRGB with default settings – do I tick simulation profile?
Thank you.
