How bad are these verification results

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  • #30603

    Marasmic
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    A bit of backstory.. I’ve been calibrating this panel using gamma 2.2 and single curve for years now and it’s always looked great visually after calibration. Lately after calibration it’s been a green tinted, washed out mess after calibration. I followed a bunch of guides and changed a bunch of windows settings, none of which fixed the problem. Even though the monitor looked good in verification, it looked terrible visually and it never used to have that problem.

    I finally decided to calibrate to a bunch of different standards trying to fix the gamma and color temp issues. I eventually ended up just following this guy’s guide and while my verification chart looks terrible, the monitor looks great visually. Can someone look at this verification chart and tell me if it’s as bad as I think it is? Additionally does anyone know why the default settings that I’ve been using for years now look terrible all the sudden?

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    #30610

    Vincent
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    If that 32GK850G is a P3 display

    1. munki smile does not support it
    2. it is not a “WLED” (blue led yellow phosphor sRGb display) it may be a WLED PFS (whcih is a totally different led tech)

    So

    -buy an i1d3 colorimeter

    or

    -set white point target to native and set white visually using RGB gains. If WP target is set to native it will make greys have the same color whatever it is. Remember to use relatie white in LUT3D creation (madVR, Resolve, etc)  if you use that visual matching approach, do not use absolute.

    Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon  
    Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    #30611

    Marasmic
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    It’s a standard 8-bit sRGB panel as far as I know. Is DCI-P3 just the HDR gamut that most of these newer HDR monitors use?

    As far as the mode goes, I have white LED and LCD CCFL. Which one should I be using?

    #30613

    Vincent
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    As far as the mode goes, I have white LED and LCD CCFL. Which one should I be using?

    Backlight for P3 display is not supported in your colorimeter. Both options are wrong. Your colorimeter is too old and low end, so it does not support “distributed upgrades” as i1d3 does. Buy a new one or use visual whitepoint approach.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Vincent.
    #30615

    Marasmic
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    Is this even a P3 display, though? I don’t mind buying a new colorimeter, but I also don’t want to waste money if I don’t have to.

    https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_32gk850g.htm

    TFT says my monitor isn’t a DCI-P3 panel.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Marasmic.
    #30621

    Vincent
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    Yes, I see now, then it looks that colorimeter internal correction for WLED is not a good match for that display. Correct with an spectrophotometer or use visual whitepoint approach as explained previously.

    Your measurement device is not future proof so if you can upgrade it do it.

    #30623

    Vincent
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    BTW, calibrate with a slower speed (in calibration tab). Grey grange is bad on report. Relatively high a* oscillations on measured grey (green-pink tints)

    #30632

    Marasmic
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    My friend works in the printer industry and has access to really high end calibration equipment. If I borrow a spectrophotometer off of him and use it to create a correction profile for my display, will that correction profile be compatible with the Colormunki? I know the Smile is poop, but I’m also trying to avoid spending $259 on an i1 Display Pro right now.

    The thing that has me confused is that this just started happening randomly. I’ve always used the WLED profile and I’ve never had an issue, but now all the sudden the monitor looks terrible. Did argyll update something or is my device just broken? Could the sensor be dirty?

    #30633

    Vincent
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    The thing that has me confused is that this just started happening randomly. I’ve always used the WLED profile and I’ve never had an issue, but now all the sudden the monitor looks terrible. Did argyll update something or is my device just broken? Could the sensor be dirty?

    Unlikely, but make sure that:

    -there is no GPU driver whitepoint tweak (intel/amd/nvidia control panel), no OS “night mode” active

    -try to load older profiles, you have them stored in windows profile folder or in your user folder appdata\roaming\displaycal\storage.  Depending on RGB gains chosen for that profile, if they are close to your current ones on OSD and display has not difted very much you can check if older whitepoint was on spot on display with ist current status and newer profiles are the ones that are off (measurement device as 1st culprit)

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Vincent.
    #30635

    Marasmic
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    Unfortunately I don’t save my profiles… But I do have all my old measurement reports. I’m not sure if you’ll be able to tell anything from those but I uploaded 3 from about 3 – 5 months apart. To my relative inexperienced eye it looks like the panel was calibrating much more accurately before than it is now. At least according to the Colormunki.

    I talked to my friend and he said I can borrow a spectrometer to create a correction profile. It is even worth doing that for the Smile or would I be better off getting a new one and if I get a new should I still make a correction profile for it?

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    #30639

    Vincent
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    No, old measurements are not useful, you would need to load old VCGT (grey calibration) stored on a profile created with the same RGB gains (+brightness+contrast) that you ued to create them (dislay should not have droft too much), otherwise it won’t be a valid comparison.

    With a reference device you can correct your old colorimeter. Set WLED mode and make CCMX correction.
    (set whitepoint first with reference device to check that all works as intended)

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Vincent.
    #30643

    Marasmic
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    Is this the colorimeter you keep recommending?

    I can’t actually find the i1d3 anywhere.

    Edit: I have no idea why it’s trying to open that via Kindle, but it’s the X-Rite i1Display Pro.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Marasmic.
    #30669

    Vincent
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    i1d3 is a family of devices. Xrite i1DisplayPro is part of that family. It’s the fastest sibling and the one with more compatible software (excluding propietary EDRs for Calman and its own i1d3 and Wacom HW calibration using their own i1d3)

    For DisplayCAL/HCFR/ArgyllCMS all of them are i1d3, with the same capabilities but the colormunkidisplay/i1displaystudio is slower because HW.
    That why I usually write “i1d3” instead of i1displaypro, because you may think the cheaper ones have better ROI for your particular situation. If you display had HW internal calibration the expensive one is the way to go because it is the only one supported… or if you are trying to make huge profiles with thousands of patches because the speed.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Vincent.
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