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I have a couple of questions regarding calibration.
How accurate is black level readings on the ColorMunki Display? How low is the meter able to read? My Samsung Tv measures around .012 nits, is this a reliable reading to create an accurate bt.1886 profile?
What type of led is my Samsung Tv UN40H6203? So I can pick the correct spectral correction. I tried looking up information, and all I could find is that its an led display. I don’t know if its RGB led or White led.
Also, when I set the White levels on both my Samsung Tv and my MacBook Pro to 120 nits, my MacBook pro seems a lot brighter, why is that?
With black frame insertion is readings accurate? Or do I need to enable other setting with it enabled?
Final question. How reliable is the ColorMunki Display in terms of accuracy? Are both the i1 DisplayPro and ColorMunki Display exactly the same, with the only difference being in the limitations in software? I have the ColorMunki Display Rev.B-02.
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Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.How accurate is black level readings on the ColorMunki Display?
It’s pretty good without much fluctuation.
How low is the meter able to read?
Around 0.003 cd/m2 according to 3rd party sources.
What type of led is my Samsung Tv UN40H6203? So I can pick the correct spectral correction. I tried looking up information, and all I could find is that its an led display. I don’t know if its RGB led or White led.
I’m pretty sure it’s white LED.
With black frame insertion is readings accurate? Or do I need to enable other setting with it enabled?
You may want to disable that for calibration.
Final question. How reliable is the ColorMunki Display in terms of accuracy?
Pretty much unrivaled to date in its price range.
Are both the i1 DisplayPro and ColorMunki Display exactly the same, with the only difference being in the limitations in software?
The ColorMunki Display’s minimum integration time is forced to one second in its firmware. Otherwise, the devices are virtually identical.
Thanks for the reply. I got a good deal for ColorMunki Display for $120 new which is why I chose it over the i1DisplayPro. I wonder if someone can flash the i1’s firmware onto the Munki Display, so I can get the speed of the i1. A few more questions.
Im calibrating my tv with HCFR. In HCFR what do I choose for observer type? I chose CIE 1931 2 deg, is this fine? And whats the best integration time to set to for the ColorMunki Display?
Im using the avs hd 709 test patterns I burned to a disk. Whats better to use to calibrate colors, the 100% colors, or 75% colors? If I calibrate using 75% colors, is the default color space fine 709? I noticed there was another one to choose in the settings that says 709 75%/75%.
For my dell computer monitor, how do I create a 3d lut profile for mad vr, without ruining my existing calibration? I calibrated using the Office &Web preset defaults. I don’t want to ruin this profile., but at the same time have a calibrate 3d lut along with it for mad vr.
What the lowest nits for peak white that is acceptable for accurate calibration? 120 nits is too bright for me.
I want to create two 3d lut profiles, one for rec. 709 and one for rec. 601. How do I create a 601 profile?
I wonder if someone can flash the i1’s firmware onto the Munki Display, so I can get the speed of the i1.
The speed difference is not really all that significant.
Sorry, can’t give support for HCFR. You may want to visit the HCFR thread over at AVSforum.com
What the lowest nits for peak white that is acceptable for accurate calibration?
Technically there is not really a lowest limit, but practically and in terms of instrument capabilities it’s probably very roughly around 40-50 cd/m2
How do I create 3d lut profiles for mad vr using dispaycal without ruining my existing office & web calibration?
And what setting to use to create both a 709 3d lut for hd content, and a 601 3d lut for dvd’s?
I calibrated using the Office &Web preset defaults. I don’t want to ruin this profile., but at the same time have a calibrate 3d lut along with it for mad vr.
Just select the existing profile under “Settings”, enable the 3D LUT tab in the “Options” menu, then on the 3D LUT tab set 3D LUT format to madVR and create the 3D LUT. Voila. Default settings are correct for Rec. 709.
I want to create two 3d lut profiles, one for rec. 709 and one for rec. 601. How do I create a 601 profile?
You don’t need to as it already exists: EBU 3213 (PAL) is Rec. 601 for european countries, SMPTE RP 145 (NTSC) is Rec. 601 for the US.
Ok thanks. So it creates a 3d lut without me needing to remeasure.
Does the amount of patches measured matter for 3d lut’s. The office & web only measures 175 as at defaults, and the Video 3d lut for Mad VR profile measures 1553.
Is it ok to create a 3d lut using my existing Office & Web profile with only 175 measured, or do I need to create a new Office & Web profile measuring 1553 patches, and then create a 3d lut for mad vr like you said above.
And for Rec. 601, after I create a 709, I just change the Source Color Space to SMPTE RP 145 (NTSC) and click create 3D lut and thats it? No need to remeasure for 601?
Does the amount of patches measured matter for 3d lut’s.
More patches = potentially higher accuracy. This is dependent on the display device: A display with good linearity (usually not the case for TVs due to internal processing) will need fewer patches to determine an accurate device response.
Is it ok to create a 3d lut using my existing Office & Web profile with only 175 measured
Yes.
And for Rec. 601, after I create a 709, I just change the Source Color Space to SMPTE RP 145 (NTSC) and click create 3D lut and thats it?
Correct.
I also want to add, do I need to enable, disable gpu ramps in mad vr.
No.
Im calibrating my TV under game mode because I want the advantage of lower input lag. But I noticed under game mode it automatically adjusts the backlight depending the content shown on screen.
Darker scenes backlight dims, like when displaying a black color patch or showing a night scene, this is how my TV is able to get around 0.012 nits. Under movie mode it doesn’t do this, blacks measure at around 0.022-0.030 nits.
Is game mode acceptable for calibration or should I stick to movie mode. As far as I know I’m not able to shut off this automatic blacklight adjustment. My TV is not a local dimming model. And I shut off all Eco Energy Saver features too and it still adjusts based on content in game mode.
