- This topic has 4 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hi everyone, perhaps this is not a new topic (in that case, please address me to the discussion, thanks).
The problem is the difference of brightness between a printed photo and the same photo on the screen: on the screen, the same image is much brighter. The printer (Blurb) simply says keeping the screen’s brightness around 60-70%. I’m a newbie, of course, but I have an Xrite i1 Display Pro, so I suppose I can obtain a more precise result using DisplayCAL. Anyway, in DisplayCAL I found out the setting PHOTO (D50, Gamma 2.2) and I set it, but I can’t find anything about brightness…
So my question: could you very kindly tell me a step-by-step guide to calibrate my screen in order to obtain the same/near luminosity as the printer?Thanks a lot.
Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.ERRATA CORRIGE: I’D LIKE TO CHANGE MY FORMER QUESTION
The problem is the difference of brightness between a printed photo and the same photo on the screen: on the screen, the same image is much brighter. The printer service (Blurb) simply says keeping the screen’s brightness around 60-70%. I’m a newbie, of course, but I have an Xrite i1 Display Pro, so I suppose I can obtain a more precise result using DisplayCAL.
Now, I’ve chosen PHOTO setting in the first tab of DisplayCAL.
1. Whitepoint: is 5000K by default, is it safe for printing purpose?
2. White level: many photographers recommends 80 cd/m2, whilst Saal instead says 90 cd/m2… Which is better if the printer service won’t give you any parameter?
3. Black level: should I let it unselected?
4. Tone curve: is good letting Gamma 2.2 when working in a “darkish” ambient? (i.e. evening light from the window)
5. Testchart: auto-optimized?Thanks a lot.
For evaluating a print you need proper light to see it. It is not just certain color coordinates, and that’s the difference between light going directly to your eyes and light that is going to be relfeted on some object. You need certain spectralpower distribution (SPD) in such light source, typical is D50 SPD.
There are several sources for simulation such SPD: CCFL from Osram or Normlicht or even better Yuji VTC LEDs (which avoids certain chemical elements spectral spike,thus reducing metameric failure). Bundled in T8 lamps, modules, etc
This is your FIRST REQUIREMENT.Your second requirement ONCE FIRST ONE IS MET is to calibrate your computer display to match light reflected on a photo from a D50 lightsource.
This is attained by 3 additional requirements:
-use softproof with your printer or printer lab profiles, so you can see gamut limitations and contrast drop (simulate ink)
-match white, usually D50 white in monitor + simulate paper white in Photoshop (or other software) OR coordinate/visual match of a certain papper sheet under such light.
-match brightness. A good aproximation is divide ambient lux at paper placement by number pi, that will be cd/m2 on monitor.A example:
-go to your printer lab web download a baryta like softproof profile, install it.
-make sure that you have a good light source with smooth SPD close to D50, dim it til you get ~314lux on paper placement
-calibrate & profile your display to D50 100cd/2 (number pi!). Gamma is irrelevant, closest to display native or 2.2 so you loose less grey unique levels.
-open an image, apply softproof
-now if you place a hard copy of such image under such light source they shoudl be close to a matchFrom alternative SPD lightsources like certain LEDs close to D65, change white point color on computer. Just try to match paper+lightsource color.
Also brightness setting can be read in the other direction. If you set monitor D50 160cd/m2 you’ll need a D50 lightsource for paper and dim it to about 160*pi=500lux… which is ISO P2 appraisal.
You can change one side of this equation (brightness or whitepoint) to whatever you want, as long as you change the other too, and SPD on paper light source is reasobaly smooth.
