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My comupter room is in the northern hemisphere, has large windows but blinds permanently drawn.
Usage:
Photo editing for internet distribution using D65 + sRGB tone curve(straight 2.2 look black-crushed/contrasty)
Video restoration using MadVR with 3DLUT for reviewing my work.
* General browsing- This topic was modified on 2015-11-20 17:05:46 by roadtonever.
It’s mid-day overcast and I’m finding I’m prefering 100 cd/m2. It feels like I’m going toward setting 90 cd/m2. I assume this is not the correct theoretical mid-way point of 80 and 100 but close enough maybe?
- This reply was modified on 2015-11-24 22:10:55 by roadtonever.
Keep in mind that some LED backlit monitor uses PWM method to dim the blacklight and do have high frequency flickering when the brightness not set to 100% , whch may cause flicker illness such as headache on some people.
- This reply was modified on 2015-12-14 22:44:22 by harryytm.
I realized 100 cd/m2 is around the middle of all display standards(from DCI-P3 to AdobeRGB) so I tried sticking to it and ended up I prefer it for viewing photos and movies. But When I try to edit I find the results are too dark when I go back and compare with other media on my display. I’m now considering:
1. Swithing between 90 cd/m2 for editing and 100 cd/m2 for viewing
2. Setting 90 cd/m2.
3. Setting 100 cd/m2 and trying to improve my editing skills
What do you think?I have to work with what I have fow now. Do you suggest I set the brightness according to ambient lightning? If so, what does the formula look like? How do you deal with varying ambient brightness?
You could try installing a bias light behind the monitor in an otherwise dark room. It greatly improves the contrast of IPS displays and gives you a reference tone of gray to help with your editing. Its brightness should be no more than 10% the peak white of the display (eg. less than 12 cd/m² for a display with white at 120 cd/m²). For a usual 2.2 gamma you could set up a 35% gray field on screen and use that as your maximum reference ambient light. Then the absolute brightness of the display won’t matter as much as the eye adapts.
Personally, I have installed an RGB LED strip on all four edges at the backside of the monitor so I could have complete control over the brightness and white point of the light. The bundled controller can even store 6 presets of colour/brightness for varying calibration presets. It’s absolutely necessary to have a gray or light colored wall for this to work. Yellow paints can be fixed more easily. But overly saturated paints won’t work unless you cover the wall with a neutral curtain/wallpaper/etc.
