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Let me just start my saying, huge respect to anyone who mastered color calibration. It is super confusing and the more I read about it, the less I understand. There are so many options, it seems highly unlikely to me that two people actually get the same colors on their monitors.
For now I will ask a simple question. I keep reading that the difference between daylight and blackbody should be minimal, yet when I set it to 6500k daylight, I can see that I need to boost the green of my monitor pretty drastically vs 6500k blackbody. I’d have to say the former looks way less pleasing to me too. Is this normal? Can somebody try to explain this?
There are so many options, it seems highly unlikely to me that two people actually get the same colors on their monitors.
All that is required for two people to get the same relative color appearance on their monitors is to create an accurate display profile for both of them and use color managed software to view images (e.g. Photoshop, Gimp). Options for special cases have little to do with this.
I keep reading that the difference between daylight and blackbody should be minimal, yet when I set it to 6500k daylight, I can see that I need to boost the green of my monitor pretty drastically vs 6500k blackbody
I wouldn’t call the difference between blackbody and daylight minimal, it’s a distinct difference (normally you will want to use daylight). What’s the measurement instrument you’re using?
iDisplay Pro. Also noticed a huge difference between using one of those auto-downloaded corrections and no correction. I have warm room lighting, measured at just 2500k, and 3 monitors with light behind them shining on a white wall. Measuring luminance back there is about 120, measuring in front of the monitors it’s just 40. Even with these few basic facts, it feels like I could already calibrate in about a 100 different ways even before I touch any of the other options.
So what IS an accurate display profile? 6500k 120? Even using blackbody it seems quite cool and bright, my eyes hurt after a while. How do I know if it even looked as it should, when I might have used no or the wrong correction which could drastically influence the result? What is a correction anyway? Am I not using a colorimeter to correct my display? I also need to use a correction for my colorimeter? Do I need to calibrate my calibrator?
Also noticed a huge difference between using one of those auto-downloaded corrections and no correction.
Read the caveat notice about user contributed corrections?
So what IS an accurate display profile? 6500k 120?
An accurate display profile is one that accurately characterizes the display. Whether the display has a white correlated color temperature of 6500K or a luminance of 120 cd/m2 doesn’t matter in that regard.
You could have three different monitors with wildly different whitepoints and peak luminances all accurately profiled. If you want to match these monitors though, you would likely not do that, and set them to produce equal whitepoints and peak luminance. All of this happens before profiling (i.e. the interactive display adjustment and calibration phase).
Even using blackbody it seems quite cool and bright, my eyes hurt after a while.
You should control the room lighting (so that it doesn’t fluctuate) and then set the monitor to a brightness level that you feel is comfortable for working on it (not too bright, not too dim). In a dim room, probably closer to 80 cd/m2 than 120, but these are just numbers – treat them like that. Use what feels comfortable, and take your time finding that value. Only afterwards, calibrate & profile.
How do I know if it even looked as it should, when I might have used no or the wrong correction which could drastically influence the result?
It’s relatively straightforward. The i1D3 line of instruments comes with a set of corrections for specific display technologies. You figure out the technologies used by your monitors by looking at the specs provided by the manufacturer (see useful resources sticky topic in this forum), then set the correction(s) accordingly.
What is a correction anyway?
Colorimeters are so-called tristimulus devices. They use filters to split visible light into three primary colors (red, green and blue). Ideally, a colorimeter’s spectral sensitivity should match a standardized one (e.g. the CIE 1931 2° observer) that was modeled after average human vision. Manufacturing tolerances and other factors influence how well a colorimeter matches such a standard. A correction can improve said match and thus improve its accuracy.
Am I not using a colorimeter to correct my display?
In a way, yes (whitepoint/gray balance during interactive display adjustment and calibration). The colorimeter just measures what it “sees”. These measurements are relayed to the software driving it, and recorded in an ICC display profile. Then, color managed software can show images in a “color correct” fashion by translating from their source colorspace to the display color space, using the display profile. This is called color management.
I also need to use a correction for my colorimeter?
Ideally, yes.
Do I need to calibrate my calibrator?
Ideally, you would do that (i.e. own a high-quality spectrometer so you could create corrections yourself), but practically for most people that would be overkill.
Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.Thanks for detailed answer. So I tried to do the load correction from CD thing, but that didn’t find any corrections. I also don’t see how manufacturing tolerances would be covered by whatever is on the CD, surely they don’t put a custom file just for my specific device on it? So I still don’t really know what to set there, I chose “Auto” and that set it to some “Matrix i1 DisplayPro, ROG PG279Q by 4km” thing. I have an Asus PG279Q as my main monitor, and to the left and right of it two much older NEC 20WGX2. And yes, it’s important that they all end up looking the same.
Tried with the downloaded i1ProfilerSetup.exe, didn’t work either.
No colorimeter corrections could be imported
I also had problems importing the corrections from the i1Profiler software setup. Just use the automatic import feature, it will download the same ones shipped with i1Profiler (except for one new for OLED displays). You should get 9 corrections.
According to https://www.displayspecifications.com you should use the white LED IPS correction for your Asus and the CCFL IPS correction for you NEC monitor.
Tried it, didn’t seem to add any new ones so maybe I had already done that. Honestly I thought these were just DisplayCAL defaults though. Do you mean this?
Spectral: LCD White LED IPS (WLED AC LG Samsung)
Thanks for the help!
I see. Ok so this does not seem to change the fact that using Daylight reference comes out so green that I have a hard time accepting that this may be how a calibrated monitor actually looks like. Of course my eyes may just have adjusted to wrongly calibrated monitors for years…
This blackbody reference, why does this option exist? What device would be calibrated like that or under what circumstances would anyone choose this over Daylight? I can only guess that years ago when first calibrated monitors, Daylight must have looked so wrong that I set it to Blackbody and simply thought that must be the correct setting.
Ok, I’m actually starting to get slightly amused here. I just got a Dell Canvas, which has a high quality wide gamut display but is currently set to SRGB mode (as far as I understand). I did the pre-calibration step, 6500k Daylight and lo and behold, this screen that is supposed to be factory calibrated and comes with both SRGB and Adobe RGB paperwork showing the calibration result, is way too green according to DisplayCAL. So I adjust the colors and now if anything it looks even less green than my other screens which I had complained above looked too green with Daylight…
None of this makes any sense whatsoever.
Of course maybe some of it is because I used no correction again, as I can’t find which one is appropriate for this screen. Though it ultimately hadn’t made that much difference for the other screen so I don’t know.
I’m not really sure what it is you’re trying to do, but it makes little sense to me from an outside perspective either. I.e. you’re not using a colorimeter correction(?), you don’t know what the display specifications are (probably not provided by the manufacturer?), you said you want to make the screens look alike yet they all seem to have different gamuts (naturally a smaller gamut screen will never be able to display the same gamut as a larger gamut one, thus making this endeavor technically impossible).
I want all monitors to be calibrated to the same standard and look the same. Pretty much what I would figure anyone buying a colorimeter would want. I’m not trying anything fancy at all. I’m running into all these issues for no obvious reason, and each of them makes me less confident that I ever had nor ever will have properly calibrated monitors. I may think I do, and maybe that’s all that counts.
I’ll just recap: calibrated my main monitors including proper corrections to 6500k blackbody because daylight looked too green. After you said daylight is correct, wondered if my eyes had adjusted to the wrongly calibrated blackbody for years. And still don’t know why that blackbody option is even there. I buy a new display, which is really a drawing surface but has a wide gamut 10bit display which is not my reason for buying it but there it is. The monitor is set to SRGB though unless I’m misunderstanding something. I calibrate this new display and in the first step where I set the colors on the monitor it turns out it’s actually way too green even using daylight, the exact opposite behavior of my other monitors that I calibrated with blackbody because daylight seemed so green I assumed blackbody must the correct option.
I’m asking why the new display, calibrated with daylight, actually now looks somewhat similar to my other displays calibrated with black body. And yes, the new Dell Canvas I have currently set to no correction as I don’t know which one to use. You are most welcome to help with that.
