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Hi all,
Completely new here.
I am just wondering where i need to go to on this forum / site to learn to calibrate a tv?
I have an i1 Display Pro and want to calibrate a Panasonic 58DX902 TV (Really learn to calibrate it with lots of trial and error).
I want to calibrate for SDR TV on 1 setting, and HDR viewing on another setting. (Is this possible?)
All help would really be appreciated.
Thanks.
Calibrite Display Pro HL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.Hi,
I am just wondering where i need to go to on this forum / site to learn to calibrate a tv?
Are you looking to watch content on the TV via a HTPC? In that case, you may want to look into the madVR 3D LUT workflow (see the Wiki).
If you’re looking to adjust the TV for watching content from other sources than a PC (or if you don’t have a 3D LUT box like the eeColor), you probably want to have a look at HCFR instead.
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just one note
i would not do a 3D LUT calibration unless your i1D3 is profiled against a spectrometer.
you may add more errors than you have now.
dE for whites can be as large as dE4 from an nonprofiled to a profiled i1D3
i also wonder how do you fix the auto dimming with windows patterns when doing a 3D LUT profiling on these LCDs?
the only soultion is to calibrate with APL patterns to get stable results but madTPG doesnt have that function right.
i would not do a 3D LUT calibration unless your i1D3 is profiled against a spectrometer.
Depends on how much you want to match a more accurate instrument. In practice, white point is not a big concern (due to the way the human visual system works) unless you want to match several displays to one another.
you may add more errors than you have now.
Unlikely unless the display or instrument is actually faulty.
dE for whites can be as large as dE4 from an nonprofiled to a profiled i1D3
The significance of this depends on the situation, see above.
i also wonder how do you fix the auto dimming with windows patterns when doing a 3D LUT profiling on these LCDs?
If the display has auto-dimming, then it should be turned off. If it can’t be turned off, then you can enable white point drift compensation and use a small pattern area size, and possibly use madTPG with APL patterns.
the only soultion is to calibrate with APL patterns to get stable results but madTPG doesnt have that function right.
Not sure why you say that. From what I’ve seen this functionality seems to be working well for the people that need it.
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everything above dE3.0 is visible.
dE 4 on the whites is clearly visible when you correct it.
i can see colors that i never saw before thanks to the correct whiteballance i have now.
as for getting used to a wrong whiteballance
most of average joes with vivid mode and 10000K wb is used to it 😉
everything above dE3.0 is visible.
You eyes adapt to whichever whitepoint you’ve profiled to unless it’s far from the daylight locus. The distance of the whitepoint to a target (e.g. D65) doesn’t matter that much in isolation – only if other white sources are in view, your eyes can make comparative judgements. “everything above 3.0 delta E” is therefore a statement that is simplified too much in this case, and also misses the point. What matters most is that the white is close to the daylight locus, followed by that colors relative to the measured white are correct, i.e. that any measured color relative to the measured white has the least possible distance (in dE) to the reference color relative to the same white.
as for getting used to a wrong whiteballance
The white (gray) balance is “wrong” when the gray axis does not have the same hue as white throughout the whole range. And colors are “wrong” if they are not chromatically adapted in relation to white.
most of average joes with vivid mode and 10000K wb is used to it
The main problem with “vivid” modes is not only that the whitepoint is usually far off standard, but also that the gray balance is not neutral and contrast/colorfulness too high.
