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I’m wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction with calibrating an iMac. I’ve tried using two different devices (i1 display and Spyder5 express), but I’m totally in the dark as to what settings I should be using. I’ve created a number of profiles, both with dispcalGUI and the Spyder software. All give me more accurate colour than the standard profile with the iMac, but with every profile I’m seeing very light shadow areas and no solid black. I’ve tried profiling with default settings and also by changing settings, but even reading the online help I’m struggling to understand what are the right settings.
Thanks in advance,
Vinnie
Hi, I’d recommend the “Default (Gamma 2.2)” preset. The iMac does not have a way to adjust RGB balance, so you can skip that step during calibration.
My problem is getting a good black point Florian. I’ve the brightness set to 110cdm, but blacks and shadows all look washed out. I’m trying to find a way to get something closer to print output. The default Apple profile gives a good result for contrast, but not colour.
I’ll need to know a bit more about your workflow to be able to comment. What program(s) do you use to view/edit images? How do you soft-proof (settings as well as viewing conditions)? How is the printer profiled? How accurate is the print profile? Do you get a good verification result (in terms of delta E as well as a possible visual reference, e.g. a known-good test print etc.) when measuring the printer profile?
I use Lightroom CC for most editing. Soft proof with the printer profile. Profile is the one supplied by the manufacturer Fuji (Frontier DX-100 printer – no problem with it as I’ve been using it before acquiring the Mac). I’ve a number of Dell PCs in the office as well and both match the print output well. Prints are viewed using a Grafilite
I use Lightroom CC for most editing. Soft proof with the printer profile.
It’s common for a printing process to have a much lighter black than what most displays are capable of (typically in the range of around 10 to 20 times lighter depending on printing process and display in question), so naturally the soft-proof will simulate this lighter black point. This is not an issue with the display profile, but depends on the printer profile. If there’s a visual mismatch between the softproof and the actual print, this usually comes down to a mismatch in viewing conditions, and/or a not accurate enough printer profile.
In Adobe products you usually also have the option to turn on and off the paper white and black simulation, at the expense of making the soft proof less accurate.Profile is the one supplied by the manufacturer Fuji Frontier DX-100 printer
In my experience, this may very well be a generic profile. If you’d like me to have a look, feel free to attach the Fuji profile (as well as the monitor profile) and I may be able to tell.
Prints are viewed using a Grafilite
I think I used a Grafilite a few years back and wasn’t too impressed mainly due to the rather bumpy spectral response (thus not very high CRI) and the lack of a dimmer (the latter is useful for adjusting to the viewing environment). Personally I prefer solux lamps as a similar cost-effective alternative when a full-blown viewing booth is out of the question.
Thanks Florian, but I think we’re going off topic here. Perhaps I didn’t explain properly in my earlier post. I’m not seeing any pure black on the monitor. If I create a new document in Photoshop and fill with black, it displays as dark grey (without going into soft prrofing), but will print as pure black. It will display as black using the driver that shipped with the printer, but then the colour is inaccurate.
