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For many years now, I have seen reviews of various devices (TVs, tablets, etc.), and a common sight would be just a general profile of a display showing data such as how much of the visible spectrum it covers, as well as a whole host of other data (typically provided by software such as calman. I was wondering, does DisplayCAL offer any similar functionality?
e.g., if I just wanted to see what a display is doing out of the box, or calibrate my HDTV (for which an ICC profile would be useless since I cannot load it onto a cable box or other devices which I use with it.
One thing that i have noticed is that nothing seems to focus n the process of achieving better accuracy through the controls offered by the device its self as compared to a basic adjustment for brightness and color temperature, and ignoring the dozen other controls that the display offers, and creating an ICC profile.
If someone wanted to simply calibrate their TV or other display where an ICC profile could not be used, are there any software solutions to allow for such a task?
Unless you’re using an HTPC for playback and/or want to create a 3D LUT for use with madVR or an external 3D LUT box, DisplayCAL is not the right tool for TV calibration. You may want to have a look at HCFR instead.
I know this is a bump, but I do have an HTPC for my HDTV and use that solely for media consumption. What profile should I use to calibrate? Just sRGB or something like REC. 709 or REC. 1886?
Are you planning to use a media player with madVR support? Then the choice becomes an easy one.
I use Kodi solely for my media playback. I’m unsure if this used MadVR, I assume it doesn’t?
When I preview my calibration I do see the video running in Kodi Change.
Right now I’m trying to wrap my head around HCFR. I’m still learning a lot about calibration.
This post is old, but im on a similar mission. Using HCFR, trying to measure accuracy with DCI P3. Using a Laptop. Is there a difference to HTPC? Does TV recognize it differently and sets colors differently?
This post is old, but im on a similar mission. Using HCFR, trying to measure accuracy with DCI P3.
You can use DisplayCALs measurement report, use simulate profile & use simulation profile as display profile. This will validate factory or HW calibrations agains a colorspace.
Using a Laptop. Is there a difference to HTPC?
Check that there are no HDMI range issues 16-235 vs 0-255. Also you can use a raspberry pi as patch generator with HCFR to ensure that patches show are the ones you want without conversions. Check AVS forum thread, even an old rpi 2B can do the job.
Does TV recognize it differently and sets colors differently?
Check that there are no HDMI range issues
This post is old, but im on a similar mission. Using HCFR, trying to measure accuracy with DCI P3. Using a Laptop. Is there a difference to HTPC? Does TV recognize it differently and sets colors differently?
You can use whatever PC/laptop you want. Just make sure the TV settings are correct.
Most TVs usually have separate presets for PC inputs, normal inputs, and Game inputs. They all have different benefits. PC mode usually allows full 4:4:4 chroma but sometimes restricts customizing picture settings. Game mode allows customizing settings but no 4:4:4 chroma. Normal mode has full customization but most input lag. Of course this depends on your TV manufacturer’s implementation.
How they detect it is up to the TV manufacturer. Usually you can override it by changing the source name/type. Either PC, Game Console or Blu-Ray Player. For some brands, you have to force Game Mode by activating it somewhere in the settings menu.
Also as Vincent mentioned, make sure range levels are set correctly. I recommend setting your GPU to Limited (16-235) to avoid issues down the line. This means your desktop will look completely normal (0-255 converted to 16-235), and movies will have the right levels (16-235) as intended. No mismatches. It’s the least hassle. Most other devices use 16-235 anyway.
