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My meter was from UK. I do not know if that matters. Displaycal reads its about the same. My displaycal cal report is attached.
Maybe your display just can’t reach the blue target, but I still think it’s the correction. Note your settings on your TV, reset to default, use the white led correction, remeasure everything (grey, primaries, secondaries, saturation), and post your CIE chart (screenshot). I predict the primaries will fall into place. The correction does not preclude you from calibrating the white point, so ignore that for now.
My TV can’t reach P3 red, so it measures red as being a bit too blueish (measures 122,69,40 vs a reference of 121,61,0 – that’s HDR 50% intensity BT.2020/P3, hence why the values are halved and why the red reference contains green – note the unwanted presence of blue though – that’s because my red primary is further towards blue than the P3 target – this is not a bug).
HCFR reads my calibrite display plus just fine. Readings match displaycal and lightspace
Calibrite Display Plus HL on Amazon Calibrite Display SL on Amazon
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.I’m guessing your meter is fine.
Look at displaycal’s “show information about common display technologies.” LCD RGB LED is *definitely* wrong. It’s wide gamut. You want LCD White LED. Trust me on this. I’m pretty sure it’s the problem, so I won’t be able to help you further if you don’t fix that. You’re just confused about how this stuff works and that’s OK. It’s complicated stuff even I don’t fully understand, but I’m like 95% sure I’m correct on this
Thats the explanation. I did not know it would add colors to 0 when it could not reach. Honestly I forgot I adjusted blue to 8 saturation and 8 brightness from defaults of 0. I did this in precalibration useing the red green and blue filter on the tv and the color filter matches perfect in calman 3.1 . The meter shows lumance is high and saturation is low in blue but I adjust them both by at the same time since color control would mess all the primarys off.
I will try it. I think I have tryed everything before.
Yeah, it’s a bit confusing because “measure” is reporting in RGB, but RGB isn’t really a measurement. It’s just relative to your target. So it’s not really “adding colors,” it’s just telling you that what you’ve measured is blue-er (or less red) than your target.
The correction effectively tells HCFR where the targets are, so when you use the wrong correction, you’ll have wrong targets. So your shots might be true, but down range, someone has moved your targets.
I’m pretty sure white LED is correct and it’s important to use the right correction. Everything else will measure wrong if you don’t (especially if you use an adobe-RGB-gamut correction on a BT.709-gamut display, which you are). Again, you calibrate white (and everything else) *after* you pick the correction, so if the white point looks off initially, that’s fine. That’s what calibration is for
Near full Adobe RGB is what percent? Wolds say High p3 coverage. High is higher than near full but not 100. I get 91percent srgb, 69 percent dci and 66 percent RGB. Is that LCD RGB led? Maybe not. It looks ok so its ok. White led says non HDR gaming monitors. Vizio V series is HDR but not true HDR brightness. I did use LCD white for a few months and did not like it. My primaries where the same and Cie chart. Cyan has always been way too low. It cannot go that high so that’s the Red I get read at 100. I think my screen type is other.
White balance does not change primaries. Changing the correction should not change the primaries. If it does match blue in HCFR it will not match in Calman 3.1 with blue filter.
Strange fact. My edid primarys are not Rec 709. red is .643 , 334 , Green is .313 , .620 , Blue is .154 , .053. They are off from Rec 709 so on defaults they are off.
Its ok. I think everything is fine. This is complicated. I tried to get more info and got it. I was wondering explanations for the false 100% readings.
It does read less red in RGB primarys at there RGB 255 levels with white led. White does not look terrible yet. My mind changes its mind all the time. It could have been the lights in the room making white not look white.
I’d say near-full is 90+%. Your display is actually very narrow-gamut. 91% sRGB is low and means your display probably can’t hit BT.709 primaries (same as sRGB), which explains your measurements. 69% DCI is not what I’d call “high” P3 coverage. That’s basically false advertisement. Your display can’t even cover BT.709, let alone P3. Your display is basically useless for P3 (and thus, most HDR). 66% RGB (I assume you mean adobe) is definitely not an adobe-RGB-gamut display, which means don’t use the RGB LED correction, because it’s for adobe-RGB gamut. White LED is definitely the closest correction for you. Of course, if it looks good to you, that’s what matters, but if you’re trying to calibrate for accuracy, you’ll need to start with the white LED correction (or a spectro). White LED is for standard, BT.709-gamut (sRGB) displays, which is closest to yours. The reason it says gaming and non-HDR is because that’s often true, but not always. They claim your display is HDR, but it really isn’t. Corrections are not preference. They’re technical. Maybe cyan is where you’re missing most of that 9%.
EDID primaries often don’t actually match the physical display. You’d have to measure to confirm. They couldn’t be rec709 though, because your display doesn’t have full rec709 (sRGB) coverage (91%).
Again, as long as it looks good to you, that’s all that matters. This stuff *is* complicated.
The correction does not dictate your white point. You can change your white point
I could not find the dlls to make calibrate colorchecker plus work with lightspace. Can you give a search term or something? Im doing tests and experiments.
Thanks. Now I have some professional tools for my meter. This is nice to check things out. It is very complicated. The dlls worked. Reading helps. It was easy.
No problem. I think you’ll find lightspace isn’t significantly different from DisplayCAL and HCFR (feature-wise. It is, however, more difficult to use, due to poor software design). The only extras I’ve found at all useful so far are the drift compensation chart and the pre-roll feature. DisplayCAL and HCFR basically do everything else better. I wish either were being actively developed, because these should be easy to add
I think they finally actually banned me. Called out leetfool on his BS in a back-and-forth exchange and the mods selectively deleted posts to make him look better. I pointed out what the mods did and the site instantly stopped working. F-ing pathetic
I think i need a mix of the 2 profiles , wled and rgb led. White led is the best. Panel could be Asian. I saw serial numbers needed for replacement panels on a site but my serial was not listed. It is LTC5E7XY . I put contrast 50 and color at 55 and reduced color saturation -3 and matched the red, green and blue light filters on the red green and blue filter pictures at 100% brightness. Only at 100 picture brightness does Blue match up with color at tv defaults. My tv has a issue.
I hardwared calibrated to 10% input offset gamma 2.2 bt 1886. I ran displaycal to make simple 3 color plus matrix profiles with a lut to adjust the gamma. Straight bt1866 looks even in dark greys but is brighter than hardware 2.2 and no lut. Lut gamma 2.2 looks good too. It depends on the source and light which is best. I can still see all greys in 2.2 but much darker.
I used 30 point whitebalance in hcfr. Even though things like 12 was .1 high and 17 was .2 low the exta 15 was off. But at numbers past 60% the 5s were right. I got all the evens right 1st then worked on the odds.
Do not think we can find a profile for this monitor. Considered renting a spectrometer. It is not needed since its just for entertainment. I would be missing it after a week.
