too much green – many questions

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    Hi, total noob here, first time dealing with displaycal, seems fairly straight forward but i’m failing at the first few hurdles and having some issues.

    My current kit:

    LG EF950v 4k passive 3D OLED (2015)

    spyder2 express – i picked this up on ebay for £8, just to help me familiarise myself with the software while i save up for something better, I know this is inadquate for the task.

    Problem 1 -First I zero’d my TV settings, then set it to ISF configurable presets.  when it checked the white  balance green is way off, ialso checked this with an even old DP24 colorometer and also an app for my mobile, they all seems to think my TV is pushing green but when I look at it, it looks fine to me.  if I change my TV to COOL white its quite a bit better but whites look blue.

    Question, should I just leave my TV on warm white and leave green been higher than everthing else or should I try get the bars equal?, if so do I use 20 point low or high to do this, or something else?

    Problem 2 – as a test I chose all default and auto settings and set it running, it gets quite a way in but then crashing reporting instrument access failed or something like that. I ran it again, failed again, I ran it as admin and it worked, but when I ran it again with medium settings it stopped again more than half way in with same error.

    Question, could myt unit be faulty or is this a known issue?

    Obe more thing, I consume all my media via my HTPC so I plan to use a windows colour profile, does MADVR also use this profile or do I need to use a seperate 3D lut for that?, and do I need to use MADVR profiles and use a seprate 3D lut for SDR and HDR?

    Thanks in advance 🙂


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    aha, i missed the USB3.0 disconnection issues in the FAQ so that answers that one, i’ll move to a USB 2.0 port


    Florian Höch
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    your problems are likely nothing to do with USB 3.0, and all with using an (already ages old) second-hand Spyder2 – even in its heyday (over fifteen years ago), the Spyder2 wasn’t a particularly precise instrument. Coupled with its slow speed, it demands a lot of patience from a user, and doesn’t deliver noteworthy accuracy in return. Also, since it is using gelatine filters, which deteriorate over time, it may be at all useless now, even if it still works.


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    Agreed, I just thought it all that all three things are tried had almost the same degree of extended green from my panel. I did actually got one completed and it looked pretty decent, but this was with low / quick settings which is why i wanted to have another go with higher / longer settings.

    I’ll try a USB2.0 port just to see what happens, its money i’m very low on right now, not time 🙂

    Thanks very mcuh for your response Florian.

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